Aug 15 2010
Corked?
In the last 45 years that I have been drinking wine, probably well over a thousand
bottles of wine, I can really say that I have only had 2 bottles of what I had
considered wine that had gone bad and had actually been “corked”. Drinking
a sip of corked wine is something you will never forget once it has happened to
you, trust me on that! It doesn’t mean that the cork has slipped, moved, let in
damaging air (because all corks can do that) but in fact it means that the cork
has been attacked by fungi in the presence of chlorine used in the manufacture of
wine corks. Bluntly, it tastes like hell! You will spit and throw it away or return it
to the place you bought it, if recently purchased, and want to ram it up one of the
assorted orifices of their body. It’s bad.
What I want to relay is what the cork can do to your stored wine, subtlety. You
can detect something different but you can’t put your finger on it. It happens to
everyone who likes a certain wine, buys a supply of it for your home, and then
something happens and the next bottle doesn’t taste the same as the last ones.
What happened? Did my taste or memory of how it was supposed to taste change?
Possibly, but more than likely, the cork messed around with the wine and affected
the taste from the last bottle you tried. Years ago, there was a brewery in
Dubuque, Iowa called the Dubuque Star Brewery. It was an old, very small facility
and it had a reputation, other than being dirt cheap, that the beer never tasted the
same in any two different bottles. Well, that can happen to a wine that is bottled
and stored with a natural cork (tree bark for God’s sake) stuck in its top.
The cork is porous as it has veins and fissures running through it and even though
it is squeezed fairly tight in the neck of the bottle, it can still shrink allowing
movement, saturate and let fluid permeate it causing leaking and let air (oxygen)
into the wine letting it change in flavor in a bad way. Have you ever gone into a
huge barrel room in a winery? With all those wooden barrels, what is the first thing
you smell in the sealed barrel room? Wine! What is the color of the barrel in the
middle of its side around the “bung” plug made of wood or cork? Red wine stain.
That wine is breathing during the barrel fermentation. A wine bottle is a small
barrel with a natural stopper – cork. It will, at some time, be susceptible to all the
nasty things that can happen to natural cork. For that reason, when you store wine
in a too warm of a place at home (my favorite horrible place that I see people store
wine on the top of a warm, vibrating refrigerator) you will see the wine age quicker.
It will have pressures that are not to be considered normal and the wine will not
hold and mature as it should in cool dark place like a cellar.
People that store wine with a cork in it standing up in a cupboard is also a real
problem sitting there waiting to happen. Wine is heavy, air is light, the cork dries
out and you have bad wine. Don’t do it. Sunlight is bad too but that is another
addition to be attacked later.
What is the bottom line? Buy wine to drink within a reasonable time. If you drink
it soon, you can darn near store it any place and any way you want with little or no
chance of damage or premature aging. If, however, you are going to buy a case
and want to drink it over the next few months, store it in a dark, cool place on its
side like an internal closet or wardrobe. Even in the refrigerator is better that on
top of it! If you don’t want it to change as fast but store it longer at home, buy
good wines with screw caps. Don’t knock it – they really, really work! Ask the
Australians!
